Monday, December 22, 2014

Day 4 - Ubud

Another beautiful morning in Ubud!  Today found us on (what we thought was) a leisurely walk along the river on the outskirts of town.  Andrew found a circuit from our hotel along the river, and back up through town,so we set out a bit after breakfast.  Things started out cheery - temples, tons of animals, people smiling, etc.:

Wow, look at how green it is!
What a lovely walking path!
Cool, rice drying on the street!
Awesome grasshoppers!
Neato - roosters in baskets (being saved for cock fights)!
Big smiles!
Liars.

And then, rather abruptly, it was not cheery.  We had trouble finding the correct turn to get back to town, then we almost ran out of water, then we were climbing a huge hill in the heat, humidity and direct sun…Everyone was super hot, tired, hungry (hangry) and our feet were killing.  It's probably no surprise I don't have photos of this part of the day.


Eventually we found our way onto a main road and caught a cab to a restaurant for lunch.  While waiting for our food, Sylvie snatched Andrew's guidebook that we has using to navigate the walk and discovered that we had been completely tricked!!  Andrew sold us a stroll in the park and we got a damn olympic triathlon!  Ok, not really, but it was a tough three-hour journey that we weren't prepared for.  Andrew says we're tougher now for doing it.  We don't all see eye to eye on that. 

At least we had a view to enjoy during lunch.  As we sat in silence. ;)
On our way back to the hotel from lunch, we couldn't help but stop in a few shops, but on our way out of the last one, Andrew spotted something straight out of my nightmares…



I couldn't get a good enough angle to do the thing justice, but it was HUGE.  Its web was strung between two electricity lines and it was just waiting for some unsuspecting child to stumble along for dinner.  In all seriousness, the leg-span was as big, if not bigger than, Andrew's outstretched palm.  Yikes.  I'm not sure if I'll sleep for the rest of the trip knowing these things are out there.  Maybe a pit viper will come along and save me (those are all over the place here and we even saw a dead one in the road last night on the way home, I totally forgot to mention it!).

***

All joking aside, while our trip here has been amazing, it has also been very tough to see the many sick and starving dogs and cats that roam the streets here.  You all know how much I love animals, so I'm asking: If you have a moment and a little extra money, please make a donation to BARC or BAWA.  The organizations help feed, shelter, vaccinate and sterilize Bailnese dogs.  And specifically to my family: If you are still looking for an xmas gift for me, please do this instead.  It would mean more to me than any gift.  Here are the websites and you can donate through paypal on each: http://www.balidogrefuge.com/ourstory.htm and http://bawabali.com/about-us/

***

Before dinner, we all sat on the porch area of our room and had a few beers and watched the herons hunt lizards and insects right in front of us!

on the prowl

caught a grasshopper!
 On our walk to dinner, we happened upon a large toad in the road and tried to take a photo, but it almost jumped on Sylvie, so we yelped and ran instead.  We also saw tons of swarming insects around each light we walked past.  They looked like termites maybe?

Gecko heaven

We're off to Sanur tomorrow.  Its difficult to leave Ubud, as we've had some wonderful experiences here, but it's time to move on and learn more about the next spot.  Until tomorrow!

Sunday, December 21, 2014

Day 3 - Ubud

Today Andrew and I awoke before the sun!  We scrambled to make it out to the pool deck to see the ducks released onto the rice fields, but discovered it's not quite that easy…the ducks are kept in small pens overnight on the rice fields, but they aren't always released in the same area.  This morning we were hoping they would all run right past the hotel, but they were released onto the fields a little farther away from us.  We were definitely close enough to hear all the quacking, though!




After a lovely breakfast, we met our guide for the day - to see the middle of the country, a bit north of Ubud, near one of the volcanos.  

The first stop was to see the terraced rice fields, which are the ones you always see on tv:



Our second stop was a civet cat coffee farm.   The civet is a small jungle cat who turns the raw coffee beans from the plant into really tasty, sought-after coffee beans, via their digestive tract.  Yes, they eat it and then we collect what comes out the other end :).  We got to try several different teas and Balinese coffees, including the civet coffee, which they call Luwak coffee.  It's quite tasty:



The third stop was the volcano.  We didn't hike or trek, we actually just stopped at one of the villages on the peak across from it for some photos ops:



The next stop was an 1100-year old temple that was about 300 steps down into a valley (getting out was not as fun as getting in).  The temple was mainly carved out of the stone in the valley - very, very hard stone.  We had to each wear sarongs and be spritzed with holy water before entering:






This is snakefruit - we stopped at a little stand and picked some up before we got to the temple.  So weird, right??


On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at one more temple, built in the year 944(!), but there was a ceremony going on, so we weren't allowed in to see much of the grounds.

After a little rest and a couple of beers, we caught a taxi to Mozaic for dinner.  We had our choice of tasting menus and wine pairings and we were like kids in a candy store - Sylvie had the 8 course with a regular wine pairing, Henry had an 8 course with a premium wine pairing and Andrew and I had the 6 course surprise menu with a regular wine pairing.  The difference between the surprise menu and the others was that, surprise!, you didn't know what was coming.  Everything was great and we ate and drank our little hearts out!

Starter cocktail with kalamansi lime and lychee - had to be the best cocktail I have ever had

Menu

Surprise menu shellfish dish

Surprise menu wagyu beef with roasted cauliflower

The meal was really great and you could tell the ingredients were very fresh and locally sourced - something the chef prides himself on.  At the end of the meal we were all stuffed and glassy-eyed, so we caught a cab back to the hotel and pluncked into bed.  

Tomorrow is our last full day in Ubud and we have some fun things planned!!

Friday, December 19, 2014

Day 2 - Ubud

Ubud has already exceeded our expectations, by far.  The area is so lush with plant and wild life that you can't go more than a few moments without being awed by neon-green rice fields, or spotting a new bird or reptile you've never seen before.  It is truly spectacular.  

This morning we woke up very early and had breakfast at our hotel, overlooking the pool and rice fields.  We learned that the rice farmers use ducks as agriculture assistants - they eat algae and weeds that grow in the rice fields so the farmers don't have to remove them by hand.  Each morning, the rice farmers herd hundreds of ducks onto their fields and let them roam throughout the day to do their business.  That means you see ducks everywhere, even right next to the hotel pool!


Yesterday we were told there's a fantastic nature walk if you continue on the path behind our hotel, so we gathered our things and went hiking.  We saw so many snakes and lizards, but they were too quick to capture on camera.  Mostly we just enjoyed the landscape:





As our friends and family, you all know we eats a lot so it won't surprise you that we quickly made our way to a mid-morning snack of sucking pig - one of Bali's (and especially Ubud's) specialties.  The place is called Ibu Oka:



Once we had our fill, we wandered around Ubud's center to see a few temples:



High on temples, we decided to brave the dreaded monkey forest!!  Side note - the monkey forest is supposed to be a lot of fun and everyone who comes to Ubud does it.  The problem is that monkeys are little thieves!  And Sylvie doesn't like them, either, so we were considering not going.  But we did it anyway and we were actually glad we did.  Unless you had food in your hand, the monkeys didn't seem to pay any attention to you, so we had a little stroll through the forest and watched other people yelp with delight (fright?) as they fed the monkeys and had their iPhones stolen ;)

Yep, they're RIGHT there


Yesterday I promised to post more about the dragon-tail offerings, so here we go: 


They're everywhere!



There are also thousands of these very little temples everywhere, which the locals use to worship several of their gods:


Finally, you also see tons of tiny intricately-woven square plates/trays that locals put food and flowers on as offerings to the gods each day.  They're everywhere and they're beautiful.



After our morning and afternoon adventures, we jumped in a cab to get back to the hotel for a little rest (or beer, whatever you want to call it), but on the walk up the hill to the hotel, the rain struck.  Andrew and I made a mad dash for it and got soaked.  Sylvie and Henry, experts that they are, found a little bar to have a beer in until it let up.  The thunder was so powerful that you could feel the ground shake in our rooms!


After a few hours (and beers) at the pool, we collected ourselves enough to head to Naughty Nuri's for dinner - known for their ribs and martinis!




Full, we made our way to the Kecak - a traditional Balinese dance - performance across town.  It was amazing, with about 75 men chanting the entire hour acting as the soundtrack.




Fire-walking trance dance
Once back at the hotel, we found a few tokay geckos hanging out on the wall above our door.  They were huge!


Tomorrow we're off on a trek to the volcano.  We can't wait!!!

Bali Day 1 - Ubud

OMG, we made it!  After a full 24 hours of traveling, we're actually here!  The flights were on time and not as bad as we expected.  Arriving in Bali was so beautiful - it was like landing at SFO, but in a bizarro, tropical way.  The airport is right on the water, so unsuspecting passengers worry until the very last moment that the plane might actually be landing in the sea.  Luckily we touched down on dry land and met our guides to take us to the hotel.

The Samara is a little set of villas tucked back away in a quiet corner of Ubud.  The drive through town was spectacular - so many temples on the side of the road, so many motor bikes weaving in and out of traffic, and so many smells - something I didn't expect at all.  Incense is burned throughout the day and it wafts through the air, making the experience of just driving through town more personal than any other place I've ever experienced.

Our driver stopped at the base of a small driveway that led up to the hotel and we were told that we'd be picked up soon...on motorbikes.  That would have been great, had the road not been muddy, fairly rugged and steep!  We held on for dear life (well, at least I did) and made it to the top of the hill safely to find our amazing room and pool waiting for us:


Pool; view from our room

our room

Restroom, complete with outdoor shower :)

The place is so cool.  Anyway, we got washed up and headed out to find a quick spot for dinner.  We didn't have plans for tonight, so we just jumped into a place that looked good (and it was).  During dinner, a huge group of school-aged boys walked down the street playing what looked to be traditional Balinese instruments - flutes, drums, etc. - and a few of them were dressed as a dragon - think Chinese New Year celebration on a smaller scale.  It was so awesome, but I couldn't get any good photos.  I'm sure we'll come across them again, though.  But while wandering through town, we saw these every few feet:


They're super tall traditional Hindu offerings that are supposed to look like dragons.  They're made of the husk of a young coconut and they're put on display for just over a month for one of the holidays celebrated here.  They hang over the roadways here and make decorative archways.  They're so cool, but I promise to have way better photos in the next few days.

It's just after 9 here and we're off the bed.  Hoping to get some good sleep before we start exploring tomorrow!

Monday, December 8, 2014

Bali/Japan 2014!

We're off to Bali and Japan to close out 2014.  Our full itinerary is below, we hope you check in periodically so we can share our adventures with you!


December 17th: Fly SFO - Bali
(flight time - don't even ask)

December 19th - 23rd: Ubud
Staying at The Samara: http://www.thesamara.com/

December 23rd - 27th: Sanur
Staying at Kejora Suites: http://kejorasuites.com/

December 27th: Fly Bali - Tokyo

December 27th - 30th: Tokyo
Staying at The Hyatt Regency in Shinjuku: http://www.tokyo.regency.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html

December 30th - January 3rd: Kyoto
December 30th and 31st staying at Hyatt Regency Kyoto: 
http://kyoto.regency.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html

January 1st and 2nd staying at Tamahan Ryokan: http://www.tamahan.jp/

January 3rd and 4th: Osaka
Staying at Yugiri no Yu Dormy (which doesn't even have a website!)

January 4th: Fly Osaka - SFO


Kanpai!!